Showing posts with label Vogue. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Vogue. Show all posts

Sunday, March 16, 2014

73 Questions With A Real New Yorker


Everyone has their favorite New Yorker, and mine, without a doubt, is Sarah Jessica Parker. This has nothing to do with the Sex And The City franchise or anything Carrie Bradshaw related. Parker's an unabashed Manhattanite, practically a native, with a subtle sense of humor.

This video from Vogue only makes me like her more. Her West Village townhouse looks totally normal and lived in, if not a little bohemian. (The pocket doors! The globes! The jazz playing in the background!) This is every New Yorker's dream. Or at least mine.

Wednesday, May 22, 2013

How to Like Fashion Without Being A Twit

fashion illustration

If we have to blame anyone, it's the woman who blankets herself in labels every day. She leaves the house in her Tory Burch flats while carrying a bag covered in Gucci G's. She commits multi-label violations and expects people to take her seriously. It's part conspicuous consumption, part status symbol, and for good measure, throw in a dash of insecurity. She makes liking fashion unfashionable, a silly hobby for dilettantes and dim wits.

It's a shame because when it comes to work and raw creativity, the fashion industry demands high amounts of both. Those runway shows don't put themselves together, and each must be created around a solid theme. In 2008 I wrote a piece for The Huffington Post, explaining why Fashion week mattered not just for the buyers who had to be there, but for the creative community as a whole.

And there is nothing like a true luxury item to mark a special occasion. If you got a new job or big promotion, girl, get yourself something nice. Even I asked for baubles from Baccarat after having a baby a few years ago. But wearing too many at one time can cause suspicion. Why so flashy?

I'm a firm believer that if you're going to be into something, be into it. Be nerdy and know it on a molecular level. If men can be dorks about their fantasy football leagues then there is no reason why someone who likes the artistry and creativity of fashion can't have an intelligent relationship with it.

Here is how you do it:

1. Watch some movies: The best place to start is with The September Issue, the 2010 documentary that followed Anna Wintour and Grace Coddington as they put together the mega issue. Wintour comes across exceptionally well, as a smart but firm editor, not to mention a mother.

Along those lines, Valentino, The Last Emporer is a fascinating look at a year in the life of Valentino, as he puts together his last collection before his retirement. His legacy is miles wider than I think most people realize, and his creative process -- not to mention his middle aged seamstresses -- are a delight.

Since everyone seems obsessed with the 1970s lately, Ultrasuede: In Search of Halston, is an amazing documentary about the rise and fall of the fashion giant. Since Halston's reign was only 30 years ago, the producers were able to track down many of his associates, including models, who give very candid interviews.



2. Read some books: In light of the recent Bangladesh garment factory disaster, a lot of attention has been paid to the book, Overdressed: The Shockingly High Price Of Cheap Fashion. As a consumer, it's important to know certain stores keep prices low and what conditions are like in the factories where they are made. You can then decide if you want to be part of it.

Another important book to read, which is now in paperback, is Dana Thomas' genius look at the luxury industry, Deluxe: How Luxury Lost Its Luster. She goes through the history of many of the brands and how they function in our modern world. I've always found it to be a great gift.




3. Those fashion magazines have words in them: Fashion mags are great for flipping through while getting a pedicure, but in between all those shiny pages are actual articles, and 90% of the time they are very good. Conde Nast and Hearst can afford to hire good writers, and those writers deliver. This month Vogue has a memoir by Molly Ringwald and Elle is known for their pro-female articles and columnists. E. Jean, anyone?

4. There are a lot of inspiring stories: Ralph Lauren was born in the Bronx as Ralph Lifshitz. His father painted houses for a living. In a 2006 interview with New York magazine, Vera Wang admitted she was living off her parents well into her mid-30s, until she reluctantly put together a bridal line. No matter where you are in your career, fashion is full of success stories that will give you a swift kick in the pants to get you to level up in life.

5. Get some culture: Creativity begets more creatvity, and it's easier to understand collections and runway shows, even as a casual consumer, if one understands the larger world of the arts. Theater, ballet, dance and books all heavily influence the designers whose shows we want so desperately to see. Where one person sees just a blouse, a more enlightened one will see a chemise that references costumes of Madame Butterfly.

6. Accept that fashion is a business: We all want to have nice things, but where you are, economically, will dictate what kinds of products you are exposed to. Brands make a lot of money marketing to the aspirational shopper -- the woman who wants something designer but can't afford anything from the current collection. So she buys the perfume, the handbag covered in logos or maybe some sunglasses. These are entry level items that are easy to obtain and hopefully will lead to larger purchases down the road.

Understand that the Calvin Klein dress you buy at TJ Maxx or Marshalls is a vastly different product than what you would buy in the store on Madison Avenue. Designers create different lines for different stores. I am always shocked when people do not realize this. So even after you buy that dress at the discount shop, you still own 0% Calvin Klein.

Tuesday, April 30, 2013

Punks And Flappers

I'm loving how pop culture right now is fascinated with two groups that may seem diametrically opposed: punks and flappers. Punk is the theme of the annual Met Gala this year and the 1920s are obviously a point of interest thanks to that little art house flick, The Great Gatsby.

Vogue.com is doing some wonderful videos for both groups. Legitimately artistic and very slick.

Thursday, August 23, 2012

The September Issue Cometh...



Vogue's September issue landed with a thud in my mailbox earlier this week. I say a thud, because it is 916 pages deep. It's the biggest one ever, bigger than the last one that was 720 pages. It's Vogue's 120th birthday, so a nearly 1,000 page magazine seems fitting.

September, for any magazine, is always the biggest issue of the year. Fall is big, in general, for any big launch, fashion or otherwise. People are back from vacation, starting school, focused and more likely to spend cash. After all, the holidays are coming.

Naturally, this brings out the critics of the issue: Why is it so large? It's mostly ads, anyway. Is there even anything to read in there? (There is.)

Years ago a woman I worked with came into the newsroom after sitting through a few Fashion Week shows in Bryant Park. She had never done any fashion writing before, and someone asked her how she planned to keep track of all the different styles.

"You have to look at it as an art," she said. "You have to look for themes in styles, silhouettes and how it compares to years past. You don't necessarily have to remember the details of every single piece.

Her response stuck with me, and I think about it whenever I hear someone moaning and groaning about the frivolity of fashion and the spectacle that comes with fall. It's not about the skirt or the dress -- it's the artisticness behind it. I think it's easy to forget that designing anything -- be it clothing or art or wooden chairs -- is a creative endeavor. I once wrote a piece for The Huffington Post that suggests that fashion week matters not so much for the clothing, but the fact that being around so much creativity begets more of the same.

It's also a good starting point for looking deeper. I always encourage fashionistas to read Dana Thomas's book Deluxe: How Luxury Lost Its Luster as well as Overdressed: The Shockingly High Cost of Cheap Fashion. When one examines the industry beyond the realm of status symbols, there are some fascinating -- and sometimes inconvenient -- truths to be found.

If you've never seen The September Issue, the documentary about putting together Vogue's flagship issue, you must, Below is a clip.

Thursday, July 14, 2011

SJP, On Why She Stays In Manhattan.



This month's issue of Vogue has a great profile of Sarah Jessica Parker. It covers a lot of ground, but she nailed it when she explained why she stays in New York City -- with three small children.

"I can't imagine living in seclusion. We flirted with it. We went outside the city and troubled all these Realtors and stood in these homes and fantasized and then I kept picturing nine o'clock...The beautiful thing about New York, is that you have to expose yourself to other people the minute you step outside the door. There is no choice. And I love that."


It's not that the suburbs aren't pretty and spacious with lots of nice people. When night falls what are you supposed to do with yourself? Watch Dancing With The Stars? Eat?

In one paragraph she explained why people stay in Manhattan and deal with space issues, expensive everything and the crowds. It's because we need it. People who are meant to be in the 'burbs wash out early. The rest of us armadillos stay, because there isn't anywhere else we'd thrive.